When converting a vehicle for use with LED Turn Signal bulbs, it is often not enough to simply replace the regular incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. In many cases, you will have to either replace the car's flasher module, or trick the flasher module into thinking that there are "regular" bulbs in your car...
...and here is why:
An LED bulb only consumes a very small amount of electrical current. The turn signal flasher (if it's a regular "thermal" flasher) was designed for bulbs that consume a lot of power: The power consumed by the bulb runs through the flasher and heats up a bimetal switch. When the bimetal deforms from the heat, it breaks the circuit (causing your lamp to go off), this causes the switch to cool down and go back to it's original shape (it will close the circuit again, the lights come on, the switch heats up, and the cycle begins again).
If the amount of power going though the switch is very little, not enough heat is generated in the flasher to cause the bimetal to bend. The most common symptom is that your turn signal lights simply stay on. If you run a MIX of regular and LED bulbs (say regular in the front, LED in the back), you may not notice it but if your incandescent bulb breaks, you're back to nothing-flashing.
Other symptoms are fast flasher, slow flashing or not coming on at all.
There are usually two solutions:
Install Load Resistors: these resistors basically a resistor that consumes enough power to cause the stock flasher module to kick in. Your flasher basically doesn't know that you're running LED bulbs. This is usually the more expensive solution, creates a lot more work and just generally undesirable. However, this may be what you have to do if you cannot find an LED-compatible flasher.
LED-Compatible Flasher: This will work on most cars (and the older the car, the more likely), and usually means ripping out the stock flasher and putting in an LED-compatible replacement. Sometimes you may have to flip some wires (and you can find harnesses to make that really easy). There are various different models of LED compatible flashers, and there are also different types.
Getting the right MODEL: Simple enough, the LED-compatible flasher should have the same number of prongs, pin-out and size/shape (square vs round) as your existing flasher. Sometimes, LED compatible flashers have an additional wire coming out of the top of the flasher, that just needs to be attached to the car's ground.
Getting the right TYPE: Some LED flashers will work ONLY WITH LEDs and will go up in smoke when you put incandescent bulbs (or a mix of LED and incandescent) into your lights. Those flashers should be stayed-away from. There are also SOLID STATE flashers, those don't use a relay, have an extremely long life (because they don't have any mechanical parts), are more expensive and usually do NOT make a clicking noise.
Hazard Flasher: Some cars have two flashers, one for hazard lights, another for turn signals. They may or may not be different models, but you will have to replace both.
LED BULB PROBLEMS
WHY DO MY HID BULBS FLICKER OR STROBE?
There are several reasons that might cause your HID bulbs to flicker or strobe:
You may require a special harness because your car is not designed to have HID lights installed. This is caused by the amount of resistance that is required for the vehicle's electrical system, and since HID is a low resistance and high output application, the vehicle will not send a constant amount of power to the ballasts and cause the lights to flicker and make an error light to show in the dashboard of the vehicle.
We offer a solution for both Bi-Xenon and single beam applications that add just the right amount of resistance to stop the flickering and turn off warning messages on your dashboard.
For Low-beam we have our "HID Warning Canceller" that is a simple plug and play application that installs between the ballast power wire and the ballast
For the Bi-Xenon kits we have what we call a "Bixenon Special Harness" this harness includes 2 inline resistors that are programmed to tell your cars/trucks computer that you have halogen bulbs and allows you to run HID lights with no error codes or flickering. Both of these solutions are just as easy to install as the rest of our kits.
Here is a list of some of the vehicles that need the harness: 2003+ Audi, BMW, Chrysler, Dodge, Ford, Jeep and Mercedes Benz.
Your vehicle may have what is called DRL, or Daytime Running Lights. This is an option that only works with halogen bulbs because the vehicle's computer only sends roughly 20 watts of power to the headlights and HID requires a minimum of 35 watts of power to the ballasts to ignite the bulbs. Click here to find out how to disable your DRL.
Check your fuse box. Are your headlights using a 10amp for 15amp fuse? If so upgrade to a 20amp fuse. HID lights are best run with a 20amp fuse because the amount of resistance is reduced and the amount of power is increased, also because it is a small increase of power it is still safe for your factory wiring.
Check your connections! Are all your connections clean and dry? Look inside the connectors, are the pins bent? Was it difficult to connect any of the plugs? This is typically the most common fault in a system, if the connection pins are bent or not securely in place or may even be wet. Also you may have the wires reversed, use a test light to make sure you have the wiring: positive to positive and negative to negative.
You may not be getting enough power to your headlights to power the ballasts. If you have a volt meter or a way to check the amount of power coming from your headlight connection, you should have at least 7 volts coming from your headlight plug to power the ballasts. If you do not you may require a battery relay kit. (S-RELAY-R)
Maybe the product is defective, if you have done the previous steps and still have a problem than it is possible your product may be defective, if this is the case please feel free to contact us either though email or call at 608-543-3593 and we will be glad to help you resolve the problem.